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Sites in RedClay
Red Clay State Historic Park
This state historic area has been developed to preserve and commemorate
the council grounds that served as the defacto capital of the Cherokee
Nation from 1832 until 1837. The 260-acre park includes an interpretive
center, reconstructions of the council building and a Cherokee farmstead,
hiking trails, a picnic area, an overlook tower, and a 500-seat
amphitheater. The focal point of the Red Clay park is the Council
Spring, a large blue spring that issues more than a half-million
gallons of water a day. In the early nineteenth century, the Council
Spring was located in the midst of a dispersed community of Cherokee
farmsteads known as Red Clay or Elawohdi, home to Charles Renatus
Hicks, assistant principal chief of the Cherokee Nation. Beginning
in 1816, Hicks hosted a series of national council meetings at Red
Clay, establishing precedent for its later use. These general councils
were often huge affairs; thousands of Cherokee citizens attended
sessions and socialized at meetings that lasted days or weeks.
Visitors to the last capital of the Cherokee Nation in the east
can learn more about Red Clay and its role in nineteenth century
Cherokee life at the James F. Corn Interpretive Center. The center
features a brief video presentation that details the Cherokee Nation's
struggle for its homeland and eventual forced removal to the west.
The military removal and subsequent Trail of Tears emigration are
also depicted by a series of stained glass images in a new addition
that overlooks the Council Spring area. Interpretive exhibits in
the center describe nineteenth century Cherokee government, economy,
recreation, and religion; these exhibits vividly depict Cherokee
assimilation of western lifeways and the cultural pluralism of Cherokee
society.
Contact: Red Clay State Historic Park, 1140 Red Clay Park
Road, SW, Cleveland, TN 37311
Phone:(423) 478-0339
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Sites Near Red Clay
The Heritage Trail
The heritage trail in southeastern Tennessee emphasizes themes
of Cherokee life and culture in the early nineteenth century, and
examines the tragic forced removal of the Cherokee people in 1838.
Visitors traveling north from Red Clay cross the rolling hills and
broad bottom lands of the old Amohee District to find Nancy Ward's
grave at Womankiller Ford, the Fort Marr blockhouse at Benton, and
Tennessee Old Town and Hiwassee Old Town at the Hiwassee River.
Visitors may also travel to Charleston, 25 miles north of Red Clay,
to tour the sites of the old Cherokee Agency, the Lewis Ross Home,
Fort Cass and the Cherokee internment camps where thousands of Cherokee
prisoners spent the summer of 1838, awaiting their deportation over
the Trail of Tears. The camps extended twelve miles southward from
Fort Cass, up the valley toward Cleveland. Twenty miles west of
Cleveland is the Cherokee Memorial Park at Blythe's Ferry across
the Tennessee River, where Cherokee prisoners left their old homeland
and crossed the river on their westward trek. On the way back to
Red Clay, visitors can stop at the Museum at Five Points in Cleveland,
where exhibits depict the native heritage of Bradley County from
the late Mississippian period up to the 1838 removal.
Another trip northeastward from Red Clay leads visitors through
the old Cherokee settlements of Turtletown and Coker Creek in the
Chilhowee and Unaka mountains. This two and a half hour trip leads
through Cleveland, Tennessee, then eastward on U.S. 64 through the
Ocoee River Valley and through the Ocoee River Gorge to wasted mining
district of Ducktown, Tennessee. North from Ducktown is Turtletown,
where a Cherokee community hung on after removal until the late
nineteenth century. Sixteen miles north of Turtletown, is Coker
Creek, site of removal era Fort Armistead on the old Unicoi Turnpike.
From Coker Creek, visitors can descend the Chilhowee Mountains to
Tellico Plains and access other interpretive hubs at Vonore (via,
TN 68 and US 411) or Robbinsville, North Carolina (via the scenic
Cherohala Skyway). Travelers may also backtrack to Ducktown and
follow US 64 eastward to the interpretive hub at Murphy, North Carolina.
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Nancy Ward Grave Site
Nancy Ward, the famed Beloved Woman of Chota, rests in a small
hilltop cemetery overlooking the Ocoee River, where U.S. Highway
411 crosses near the ancient ford of the Warrior's Path and the
old Federal Road. Ward, an important councillor and diplomat for
the Cherokee Nation, spent her last days at a nearby inn within
sight of this cemetery. During her long life (ca. 1738 - 1822),
Ward witnessed profound changes in Cherokee culture, and was herself
both innovator and conservator of Cherokee tradition. Oral tradition
indicates that Nancy Ward was born in the Overhill settlement of
Chota around 1738, a niece of the ascendant leader Attakullakulla.
She married Kingfisher (Tsula) around 1752, and bore two children
before Kingfisher was killed in the 1755 battle of Taliwa against
the Creeks. She was with Kingfisher when he fell, and picked up
his gun to continue the fight until the Cherokees had won a decisive
victory. For her courage and tenacity, she was awarded the title
of "War-Woman," a distinction that gave her an influential voice
in the Chota council.
Contact: Hiwassee River State Park, Spring Creek Road P.O.
Box 5, Delano, TN 37325
Phone: (423) 263-0080
Contact: Tennessee Overhill Heritage Association, P.O. Box
143, L. & N Depot, Etowah, TN 37331
Phone:(423) 263-7232
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Fort Marr
The last surviving blockhouse of Fort Morrow (locally known as
Fort Marr), a removal era military post built on the old Federal
Road near the Conasauga River, now stands on the southern outskirts
of Benton, Tennessee, next to the Polk County jail on the east side
of U.S. Highway 411. This cantilevered, hewn-log building is the
last physical vestige of the forts that state and federal troops
occupied during the infamous Cherokee removal of 1838. The blockhouse
originally stood at Old Fort, Tennessee, where it was constructed
in 1814 to serve as a supply depot for Tennessee troops serving
in Jackson's Creek War campaigns. This long-abandoned post was re-garrisoned
in 1837 by troops preparing for the forced Cherokee removal. Initially
designated Camp Lindsay, the post was rechristened Fort Morrow after
the addition of three blockhouses and a palisade enclosure. By May,
1838, the fort housed one mounted company and two infantry companies
under the command of Captain John Morrow. These troops were assigned
the duty of collecting Cherokees from communities in the Tennessee
mountains and the eastern edge of the Tennessee Valley, then transporting
the Cherokee prisoners to the internment camps at Fort Cass where
they would await deportation.
After the 1838 removal, Fort Morrow and its grounds passed into
private ownership. The fort buildings gradually deteriorated until
the single blockhouse remained, used as a chicken house. In 1922,
the owners donated the old blockhouse to Polk County; it was moved
twice before reaching its present location in Benton. Today, visitors
to the blockhouse will find only this inconspicuous structural remnant
as the sole physical reminder of the military operation that swept
the Cherokee Nation from eastern Tennessee.
Contact: Hiwassee Ocoee State Parks, Spring Creek Road,
P.O. Box 5, Delano, TN 37325
Phone: (423) 263-0080
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Sites near Charleston,
Tennessee:
A number of sites important to Cherokee history during the era
of the military removal are located in and around Charleston, Tennessee,
situated on the south side of the Hiwassee River along U.S. 11,
twenty-five miles north of Red Clay. Here once stood the U.S. federal
agency to the Cherokee Nation (1819-1838) and its successor, Fort
Cass, the Army headquarters for the Cherokee removal of 1838. Still
standing is Lewis Ross's house, once one of the finest homes in
the Cherokee Nation, and the Cherokee government's headquarters
during the Nation's forced internment in the summer of 1838. The
notorious internment camps, now fields and pastures, extend over
10 miles southward from Charleston to the northern edge of Cleveland.
To access this area from Red Clay State Historical Park, return
to TN 60
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The Cherokee Agency
When the Cherokee Nation ceded the Hiwassee District to the United
States in 1819, the federal Cherokee Agency relocated from Agency
Creek in Meigs County to present-day Charleston, in Cherokee territory
on the south side of the Hiwassee River. The agency functioned as
an embassy; this was where the business of day-to-day relations
between the United States and the Cherokee Nation was conducted.
Official correspondence passed through the agency, as did annuity
payments and federal aid linked to the "civilization" program. White
businessmen and travelers applied at the agency for permits to pass
through or trade within the Cherokee Nation. Cherokee citizens petitioned
the agent for redress against American citizens and vice versa.
First and foremost, the federal agents to the Cherokees were the
representatives of American policy, and these agents fronted the
push for land cessions and eventual removal of the Cherokee people.
Agents who served at the Charleston agency were Return J. Meigs,
Joseph McMinn, and Hugh Montgomery; after passage of the Indian
Removal Act in 1830, the notorious Major B.F. Curry was stationed
here as emigration agent. After Curry's death in 1837, Nathaniel
Smith served as Superintendent of Removal.
The Cherokee Agency was situated along the east side of present-day
U.S. 11 near the intersection with Walker Valley Road. This location
was well chosen; from Walker's Ferry landing emanated the main roads
to Alabama, Georgia, and New Town, and the area around the new agency
quickly developed as a center for Cherokee commerce. There remains
no trace of the old agency, nor is there modern on-site interpretation
for the place that was so important to the florescence and demise
of the Cherokee Nation in the east.
Contact: Cleveland/ Bradley County Convention and Visitors
Bureau, P.O. Box 2275, Cleveland, TN 37320
Phone:(423) 472-6587
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Lewis Ross Home
Lewis Ross, a Cherokee businessman, Supreme Court justice, and
constitutional convention delegate, established his home, store,
warehouse, and other enterprises across a small creek from the Cherokee
Agency. From this base, Ross operated stores and other businesses
within and beyond the Cherokee Nation, and grew to be one of the
wealthiest men in eastern Tennessee. While much of the Cherokee
Nation was held captive at Charleston in the summer of 1838, Lewis
Ross's home was a center of operations for the tribal government,
and most of the final arrangements for Cherokee emigration to the
west were concluded here. Ross's former home, now privately owned,
still stands at ** Market Street in Charleston, one half mile east
of U.S. 11. The original weather boarded log structure is encased
by early twentieth century renovations that completely mask what
was once the most elaborate Cherokee house in Tennessee.
Contact: Cleveland/ Bradley County Convention and Visitors
Bureau, P.O. Box 2275
Cleveland, TN 37320
Phone: (423) 472-6587
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Fort Cass and the Cherokee Internment Camps
"We your prisoners wish to speak to you. We wish to speak
humbly for we cannot help ourselves. We have been made prisoners
by your men, but we do not fight against you. We have never done
you any harm. Sir, we ask you to hear us. We have been told we are
to be sent off by boat immediately. Sir, will you listen to your
prisoners. We are Indians. Our wives and children are Indians and
some people do not pity Indians. But if we are Indians we have hearts
that feel. We do not want to see our wives and children die. We
do not want to die ourselves and leave them widows and orphans.
We are in trouble. Sir, our hearts are very heavy. The darkness
of the night is before us. We have no hope unless you will help
us. We do not ask you to let us go free from being your prisoners,
unless it should please yourself. But we ask that you will not send
us down the river at this time of the year. If you do we shall die,
our wives will die or our children will die. Sir, our hearts are
heavy, very heavy.... We cannot make a talk, our hearts are too
full of sorrow. This is all we say..." Petition of Cherokee
leaders from the Aquohee Camps to General Winfield Scott, Fort Cass,
June **, 1838.
In 1835, the U.S. Army established Fort Cass at the Cherokee Agency.
This post, founded at the suggestion of Emigration Superintendent
B.F. Curry and named for Secretary of War, Lewis Cass, was intended
to intimidate the Cherokees into a total cession of their eastern
lands. The fort was established along what is now Market Street
in Charleston, less than two blocks from the Ross house; Curry aimed
to force Lewis Ross away from his home and farm.
Contact: Cleveland/ Bradley County Convention and Visitors
Bureau, P.O. Box 2275
Cleveland, TN 37320
Phone: (423) 472-6587
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Blythe's Ferry- Cherokee Memorial Park
The site of Blythe's Ferry, where thousands of Cherokee emigrants
crossed the Tennessee River during the Trail of Tears deportation,
is now home to the Cherokee Memorial Park, a commemorative and interpretive
area where visitors can view outdoor exhibits which chronicle the
Cherokee experience across the rift of the 1838 removal. The park
features a memorial on a bluff top overlook of the former ferry
crossing; this overlook provides a vista of Chickamauga Lake, Hiwassee
Island, and the Hiwassee River Wildlife Refuge. The park is located
at the old TN 60 crossing (recently bypassed by a new bridge installation)
of the Hiwassee River between Cleveland and Dayton, Tennessee.
After the Cherokee removal, Blythe's Ferry developed as a primary
link across the Tennessee River between the towns of Cleveland and
Dayton, and the ferry continued in use as part of Tennessee Highway
60 until 1997, when it was replaced by a new four-lane bridge. Thanks
to the efforts of a local citizens group, the eastern ferry landing
and the adjacent bluff are now preserved as part of the Cherokee
Memorial Park, a facility devoted to the memory of the thousands
of Cherokee emigrants who crossed the Tennessee River at Blythe's
Ferry to leave their homeland forever.
Contact: Meigs County Executive's Office, P.O. Box 156,
Decatur, TN 37322
Phone: (423) 334-5850
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Chattanooga
The Chattanooga area, a short, 45-minute drive west of Red Clay,
was once the stronghold of the Chickamauga band of Cherokees, a
militant faction driven from the Overhill Towns by the 1776 Virginia
expedition. Above the treacherous "Suck" and other rapids
in the Tennessee River, Cherokee refugees established new settlements
such as Chickamauga, Bull Town, Citico, Tuskeegee, and Toqua. Under
the leadership of The Dragging Canoe, and later, John Watts and
Doublehead, these Chickamauga Cherokees ferociously contested American
encroachment on tribal lands for almost 18 years. Their struggle
became the hub of a pan-tribal alliance that united Shawnees, Creeks,
Miamis, Wyandots, and other nations in the fight to stem the American
tide from the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico. During the 1780s
and 1790s, the Chickamauga Cherokees moved their towns further down
river to more secure locations near the present-day Tennessee-Alabama
state line; these settlements became known as the "Five Lower
Towns," the center of Cherokee political and military power.
Among the businesses and institutions that sprang up in the old
Chickamauga country during the early nineteenth century were Ross's
Landing, a commercial port owned by Cherokee leaders John and Lewis
Ross, and Brainerd Mission, a Congregationalist boarding school
for Cherokee children. These early endeavors formed a nucleus around
which Chattanooga later grew; visitors can still find vestiges of
the early landmarks of the Cherokee renascence amid the bustle of
cities commercial districts.
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Brainerd Mission Cemetery
Northeast of Chattanooga, at the northern edge of the Eastgate
Mall parking lot, stands the shady, wrought-iron-fenced Brainerd
Cemetery, the last physical trace of a Congregationalist (Presbyterian)
mission to the Cherokees that operated between 1817 and 1838. Within
the fence are dozens of graves, some marked, most unmarked, of the
Cherokee students and their white instructors who died in the service
of Brainerd Mission. Among the graves is that of John Arch (Atsi),
a celebrated Cherokee convert, teacher, and interpreter who walked
from the remote mountains of North Carolina to become part of the
Brainerd Mission family.
Contact: Chattanooga Area Chamber of Commerce, 1001 Market
Street Chattanooga, Tennessee 37402-2690
Phone: (423) 756-2121
E-mail:
info@chattanooga-chamber.com
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Ross's Landing
The modern city of Chattanooga grew up around a busy Cherokee river
port known as Ross's Landing. In 1815, Cherokee entrepreneur and
future chief John Ross, and his business partner, Timothy Meigs,
established a landing, ferry, and warehouse on the bluffs of the
Tennessee River to take advantage of the traffic that plied the
waters between the Cherokee Nation and the state of Tennessee. Flatboats,
keelboats, and later, steamboats, unloaded their cargoes at Ross's;
teamsters with wagons hauled these mercantile goods to stores throughout
the western portion of the Cherokee Nation. After Meigs died in
1817, Lewis Ross entered the thriving business, and the Ross brothers
grew wealthy as merchants with commercial interests in Tennessee,
Georgia, and Alabama.
Ross's Landing is now the centerpiece of Chattanooga's revitalized
downtown waterfront. Ross's Landing Plaza, an urban park surrounding
the Tennessee Aquarium, features a walkway with inscriptions of
historic quotations by and about Cherokee people. The words of leaders
such as The Old Tassel, The Dragging Canoe, and John Ross chronicle
the Cherokees' struggle to preserve their homeland against inexorable
American expansion. The actual landing is submerged beneath the
waters of Nickajack Lake between the Walnut Street and Market Street
bridges; visitors can reach this waterfront via pedestrian walkways
leading from the Market Street Bridge. Near the riverbank stands
a bronze monument to the meteoric rise and tragic downfall of the
Cherokee Nation in the east.
Contact: Chattanooga Area Chamber of Commerce, 1001 Market Street
Chattanooga, Tennessee 37402-2690
Phone: (423) 756-2121
E-mail: info@chattanooga-chamber.com
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Side Trip
A scenic day trip eastward from Red Clay will lead visitors into
the Chilhowee and Unaka Mountains, the most rugged terrain of southeastern
Tennessee. At the eastern edge of the Tennessee Valley, lush valleys
and rolling hills strike the steep front of the Chilhowee Mountains;
beyond the Chilhowees rise the Unakas, then range after range of
mountains in the Appalachian Summit. During the nineteenth century,
these mountains were home to some of the most conservative enclaves
of the old Cherokee Nation.
Despite long decades of logging, mining, road building, and hydroelectric
development, the landscapes of the Chilhowee and Unaka mountains
still retain a wild character that hearkens back to the heyday of
the old Cherokee Nation. A drive through the Turtletown and Coker
Creek localities will take visitors through these rugged lands into
former strongholds of Cherokee tradition.
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Turtletown- Zion Hill Baptist Church
After the Cherokee removal of 1838 and the Trail of Tears emigration,
the Cherokees who remained in the east faced an uncertain future
in a land that rapidly filled with the very whites who had demanded
their removal. The largest of the post-removal Cherokee settlements
in the east were at Qualla (Cherokee), Buffalo Town (now Snowbird,
near Robbinsville), and Valley River (near Marble, NC), but a number
of smaller enclaves were scattered over southwestern North Carolina,
southeastern Tennessee, and northern Georgia.
One of the best known of these smaller, isolated Cherokee communities
was Turtletown, located astride the North Carolina - Tennessee state
line south of the Hiwassee River. Although Turtletown (Saligugi'hi)
existed prior to the 1838 removal, the post-removal community was
established by Cherokee families who evaded the troops or escaped
the Trail of Tears. The Cherokee families of Turtletown helped found
the Turtletown Baptist Church (now Zion Hill Baptist Church) in
1845, and worshipped there as part of a mixed Cherokee-white congregation
for the next 40 years.
Contact: Tennessee Overhill Heritage Association, P.O. Box
143, L & N Depot, Etowah, TN 37331
Phone: (423) 263-7232
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Coker Creek
Coker Creek, the site of a small, early nineteenth century Cherokee
community and a removal-era Army fort (Fort Armistead) on the Unicoi
Turnpike, is located just sixteen miles north of Turtletown along
TN 68. Visitors to this mountain community will find interpretive
exhibits at Coker Creek Baptist Church and Coker Creek Village (both
situated adjacent to TN 68) that describe the roles of the community,
the fort, and the road in the Cherokee removal of 1838.
Fort Armistead once stood on a low knoll now on the east side of
TN Highway 68, 300 yards southeast of the Coker Creek Baptist Church.
This privately owned site still bears vestiges of the Unicoi Turnpike,
the fort and the stock stand. Local tradition asserts that a nearby
hilltop just south of the church contains the graves of soldiers
who died at the fort; this cemetery may also include the graves
of the Cherokees who died on the trail at Coker Creek in 1838.
Contact: Coker Creek Ruritan Club, Coker Creek Village,
12528 Highway 68, Coker Creek, TN 37314
Phone: (865) 261-2310
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Editorial Note: For an in-depth look at each one of the interpretive centers along the Cherokee Heritage Trails, including complete articles and quotes, detailed information on all the historical sites, amazing full color photography depicting the land and its people, stories from many of the Cherokee Elders and much more about the wonderful Cherokee culture, make the Cherokee Heritage Trails Guidebook a part of your personal library. Click here to find out more
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